There is surf everywhere in the world. I know this now, but I didn’t always. Like most wisdoms, it took time and suffering to glean this simple truth. Surf magazines sold me tropical surf real estate, fish-eyed lies and palm-treed dystopias, which I had blindly followed since youth. The surf industry billboard and its editorial bias narrowed my mind over the years as all pornography does, through me working under the assumption that they must know more than I. But one thing our editor’s never told us was where there is wind and sea, there will be waves. This is surfing’s pragmatic truth.

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